One of the facets of our Lab Engineered Natural Ingredients (L.E.N.I.) is fermentation. Fermentation is a biotechnology process that has been around thousands of years. The making of cheese, bread, wine, kombucha, and numerous other foods and drinks rely on this ancient technique. Fermentation uses microorganisms such as yeast and bacteria which contain enzymes to anerobically (without oxygen) break down and convert energy-rich compounds, such as sugars, into simpler substances.1 This ancient art turned modern innovation is surfacing in skincare creating ingredients that are more potent, more bioavailable, less irritating, better preserved, have additional nutrients, and are better ethically sourced.

Increases Potency
Fermentation allows for isolation and concentration of phytochemicals for increased potency and efficacy. Concentrations of specific compounds can increase through the fermentation process as seen in a study comparing red ginseng to fermented red ginseng.2 The fermented red ginseng had higher levels of uronic acid, polyphenols, flavonoids, and antioxidant activity than the non fermented red ginseng. The study showed that the fermented ginseng had higher tyrosinase inhibition and elastase inhibition leading to increased skin lightening, decreased wrinkles, as well as reduced toxicological potency. Another study compared fermented soy milk extract with its non-fermented counterpart and showed it significantly increased hyaluronic acid production.3 Soy milk extract contains isoflavones as well as their respective β-glycosides which are simply the isoflavones attached to large sugar molecules. The isoflavones increase hyaluronic acid production while the β-glycosides don’t. Fermentation with Bifidobacterium bacteria removes the sugar molecules allowing the isoflavones to become biologically active thus increasing hyaluronic acid production. These are just two of many examples of fermentation making a raw material more nutrient dense and potent than their non-fermented counterparts.

Creates New Beneficial Nutrients
Fermentation can also create additional nutrients not present in the original starting material such as fatty acids, probiotics, enzymes, and bioactive peptides. Lactic acid can be obtained through the fermentation of sugars from natural sources. Fermentation is the most often used process to create lactic acid as it uses cheap renewable substrates, has low energy consumption, and has low production temperatures. One study showed that protein in soybeans can be hydrolyzed during fermentation to create bioactive peptides.4 The composition and production of the bioactives are impacted by the individual microorganism used as well as the amino acid sequence of the soy protein; therefore, the starting material and microorganism used in fermentation influence the end product. This means fermentation is rather broad and the skin benefits vast and unique to each product.5

Increases Bioavailability
Fermentation can also lead to increased bioavailability of actives as they become chopped up into smaller fragments. These fragmented ingredients have enhanced affinity for skin and hair and therefore increased penetration. Their symbiotic nature allows for better efficacy as well as decreased irritation as the skin more readily accepts the materials.

Decreases Irritation
Fermented ingredients tend to have an acidic pH that is compatible with our skin’s natural acid mantle. Acidification of the skin has a number of benefits including enhanced barrier recovery, improved stratum corneum cohesion, and improved skin hydration.6 Fermentation can also produce probiotics. Probiotics are actively being studied for the prevention and treatment of many skin ailments and diseases such as acne, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis.7 These ferments can reduce inflammation, reduce transepidermal water loss, increase skin’s natural immunity, and reduce skin irritation.

Increases Preservation
Many cultures have used fermentation throughout the years to preserve food. Fermentation creates enzymes, alcohols, organic acids, lactic acid, and antimicrobial peptides that discourage microbial growth. The fermentation process also tends to create an acidic environment that also hinders growth of undesired microorganisms. The fermentation process can also extend the shelf life of a product. It is important to note that the fermentation with its corresponding yeast and bacteria is very different from decomposition. Preservatives are added to cosmetic products to protect cosmetics from harmful yeast and bacteria that can lead to health and safety concerns. Fermentation occurs under specific conditions to create safe and skin nutritious products.

Improves Ethical Sourcing
Some very popular and efficacious skincare ingredients such as squalane, hyaluronic acid, and collagen were originally derived from animal sources. Squalane was harvested from shark liver oil, hyaluronic acid was extracted from the cartilage of rooster combs, and collagen came from bone, skin, and connective tissue of animals. Cosmetic ingredients with animal origins often come with conservation concerns, an increased carbon footprint, and a higher threshold of impurities. Fermentation of botanical or natural sources can produce bioidentical compounds that perform the same as their animal-derived counterparts but with more efficient production and without the ethical implications.

Fermented Ingredients in MAKE
We utilized this L.E.N.I. technology in a number of our MAKE products. Our Pre-Cleanse Fluid contains vegan fermented squalane. This squalane is derived from sustainably sourced sugarcane and is 100% bio-based. The sugarcane goes through biofermentation using non-pathogenic yeast to produce Farnesene, which goes through various reactions to produce squalane, bypassing the need to extract unstable squalene for hydrogenation. Through fermentation, we obtain renewable, pure, and stable squalane.8 This allows for the development of a bioidentical compound without the ethical implications.

Our Succulent Skin Wash and Succulent Skin Gel Cream contain vegan sodium hyaluronate created from bacterial fermentation. Sodium hyaluronate is a polysaccharide and native molecule in the human skin matrix that reinforces, protects, and stabilizes human skin. Its molecular weight dictates its biological function which can range from film forming for hydration to protecting skin’s NMF to inducing production of native hyaluronic acid in the skin. It was originally obtained from rooster combs, but we use sodium hyaluronate obtained from fermentation, without sacrificing skin efficacy.

Our Micro Ferment Rice Essence contains a fermented polysaccharide and bio rice ferment filtrate. The polysaccharide obtained from bacterial fermentation of vegetable substrates contains L-fucose, D-galactose, and galacturonic acid and helps with soothing, moisturizing, and restructuring of the skin. Our bio rice ferment filtrate is a sustainably sourced rice by-product. During the fermentation process, yeast chemically modify the rice water releasing natural enzymes that exhibit antioxidant and anti-wrinkle activity.

The skin benefits of fermented ingredients are immense and very diverse so grab your fermented wine and toast to this new skincare technology with much promise.


8Deriving Renewable Squalane from Sugarcane Derek McPhee, PhD, Armelle Pin, Lance Kizer, PhD, and Loren Perelman, PhD Cosmetic and Toiletries magazine Vol. 129, No. 6 | July/August 2014
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    How to Prep Under Eyes for Seamless Concealer Application

    Elevate your makeup game and achieve a flawless under-eye with our expert tips for mastering the art of concealer application. From selecting the perfect concealer shade to blending techniques for a natural-looking, radiant finish, these valuable insights from professional makeup artists will help you achieve a flawless complexion. Take your skincare and makeup skills to the next level and achieve a seamless, radiant under-eye with MAKE’s Orbital Eye Balm, Skin Mimetic Concealer and Diffusion Set Translucent Setting Powder.

    Choosing the Perfect Shade:

    The first step in achieving a radiant, smooth under-eye is selecting the right concealer shade. Your perfect concealer shade will effectively camouflage dark circles, discoloration, and imperfections without drawing attention to the concealer itself. MAKE’s Skin Mimetic Concealer is available in 20 unique shades so that you can find the perfect shade to mimic the look of your skin or brighten your under eyes. To ensure a seamless blend, opt for a shade that matches your skin tone or a shade that is slightly lighter for a brightening effect. Take the time to swatch and test different shades on your jawline or inner wrist for your closest match. Remember, a smooth transition between your natural skin tone and concealer is the key to a natural-looking under-eye.

    Prepping the Under-Eye Area:

    The key to expertly applying concealer starts with preparing the under-eye skin properly. Start by applying MAKE’s Orbital Eye Balm, our soothing eye treatment that delivers long-lasting moisture for a smooth canvas for concealer. Allow enough time for the eye balm to properly sink, ensuring a non-slippery surface that also enhances the longevity of your concealer. This step sets the foundation for flawless application, helping concealer blend seamlessly into the skin for a complexion that looks hydrated – never cakey or dry.

    Blending with Expert Precision:

    To achieve a smooth and even under-eye, apply several small swipes of the Skin Mimetic Concealer in your shade of choice away from the inner corners of each eye. Next, apply two more swipes of concealer across the others, forming a crisscross pattern, moving towards the inner corners and downward by applying these additional swipes in the opposite direction. After forming a crisscross pattern with the second layer of concealer, take a brush and blend outward. This technique distributes the product evenly, helping the concealer blend seamlessly into the skin for a natural-looking finish that lasts throughout the day.

    Illuminating the Under-Eyes Area:

    In addition to blending, illuminating the under-eye area is a crucial step for achieving a bright, lit-from-within complexion. The crisscross motion used to achieve a natural-looking, skin-like finish also helps to brighten the under-eye region. By evenly distributing the concealer with this technique and blending upward and outward, you'll achieve a brightening effect in addition to a smooth texture. Incorporate these steps into your routine for a flawless, radiant under-eye area that’s sure to elevate any makeup look.

    Set with Diffusion Set Translucent Pressed Powder:

    Setting your under-eye concealer with powder is a crucial last step to achieving a flawless, long-lasting complexion. To lock product in place and prevent it from creasing, smudging, or settling into fine lines throughout the day, gently press MAKE’s Diffusion Set Translucent Setting Powder where concealer has been applied. Specially formulated with microsphere powders and a mineral complex, this ultra-soft, refillable powder works to enhance the overall performance and longevity of your makeup by absorbing excess oil and smoothing the look of skin for a natural, balanced finish. Ensure your under-eye makeup stays smooth, crease-free, and flawless for hours on end with this weightless formula.

    Concealer is a versatile staple in our beauty bag. When used correctly, it can brighten, correct, and rejuvenate for a lit-from-within, radiant complexion.

    Incorporate these expert tips in your beauty routine to achieve an illuminated, yet natural-looking under-eye and your freshest face yet. By selecting the right concealer shade, preparing the under-eye area with an eye balm, blending with precision using a crisscross motion, and setting your look with translucent setting powder, you'll achieve a seamless, smooth finish that lasts all day. Illuminate your under-eye region and enhance your look with these valuable insights from professional makeup artists.

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    Hailey Bieber's Go-To Makeup Secret: Skin Mimetic Concealer

    As originally reported by InStyle, discover the makeup secret that has Hailey Bieber and beauty enthusiasts raving - the Skin Mimetic Concealer. This hydrating, buildable formula delivers light-to-medium coverage with a luminous, skin-like finish, making it the perfect option for warm weather makeup looks. Packed with skin-loving ingredients, this concealer offers true-to-life shades for a flawless, natural complexion. Learn more about why Hailey Bieber loves this concealer and why it’s our go-to product for effortless, summer-ready makeup.

    The Perfect Summer Concealer:

    When it comes to warm weather makeup, light and breathable products are key. The Skin Mimetic Concealer is specifically designed to provide a lightweight feel while still offering buildable coverage. Its luminous finish gives your skin a natural, healthy glow that's perfect for the summer months.

    Skin-Mimicking Pigments and Brightening Ingredients:

    This innovative concealer boasts skin-mimicking pigments that effortlessly blend with your skin tone, ensuring a seamless match. The Skin Mimetic Concealer is available in a range of true-to-life shades, allowing you to find your perfect match effortlessly. Additionally, the inclusion of green coffee extract and caffeine helps brighten and tighten the delicate skin under your eyes, minimizing the appearance of dark circles.

    Hailey Bieber's Shade of Choice:

    The iconic Hailey Bieber swears by the Skin Mimetic Concealer in shade 3. In a recent TikTok tutorial, she showcased the product's application and ability to create a flawless complexion. Following in her footsteps, you too can achieve a fresh-faced, natural look by incorporating this shade concealer into your makeup routine.

    Effortless Application and Seamless Blending:

    MAKE's Skin Mimetic Concealer comes with a convenient doe-foot applicator, making it incredibly easy to use. With its tapered shape, you can conceal the hardest to reach places with precision. The smooth, creamy texture glides effortlessly onto the skin, blending seamlessly with foundation. Whether you're a makeup pro or a beginner, this user-friendly applicator ensures a flawless finish every time.

    Versatile and Low-Maintenance:

    The Skin Mimetic Concealer is the ideal companion for a fresh face look. Whether you're heading out for a casual brunch date or spending a relaxing day at the beach, this concealer effortlessly enhances your natural complexion. Its lightweight formula conceals, corrects, and hydrates, allowing your skin to breathe while providing just the right amount of coverage for a fresh and radiant complexion.

    Crease-Proof and Long-Lasting:

    One common concern with concealers is creasing and caking throughout the day. However, the Skin Mimetic Concealer boasts a crease-proof formula that remains smooth and even, ensuring your makeup looks flawless from morning to night. Say goodbye to touch-ups and hello to long-lasting coverage you can rely on.

    Highly Praised by Makeup Lovers:

    Elevate your beauty routine and achieve a flawless, natural complexion with Make Beauty's Skin Mimetic Concealer. Discover its radiance-boosting benefits and join the ranks of satisfied customers and makeup enthusiasts who simply can’t get enough.

    With the seal of approval from Hailey Bieber and beauty enthusiasts alike, this lightweight concealer is a must-have for warm weather makeup looks. Its buildable coverage, luminous finish, and true-to-life shades make it perfect for creating natural, effortless canvas.

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    Hydrascape Reverse Emulsion for Visibly Glowing, Radiant Skin

    Water-in-oil emulsions are highly beneficial for dry skin due to their ability to deliver nourishing emollients, lock in moisture, and prevent transepidermal water loss.

    Our Hydrascape reverse, water-in-oil emulsion is specially formulated with vegan ceramides, concentrated phytosterols, and fermented aloe to deliver instant, long-lasting hydration for visibly plump, glowing skin.

    Water-in-Oil Emulsion Deep Dive

    What makes reverse, water-in-oil emulsions unique is that water droplets are dispersed throughout oil. When oil touches the skin first, it creates a protective, occlusive barrier for the skin’s outermost layer, aiding in short and long term hydration by preventing water loss and promoting the absorption of nourishing emollients and antioxidants.

    The unique blend of ingredients in Hydrascape work to seal in moisture, support the skin barrier, and deliver instant hydration.

    Vegan ceramides enhance the moisture barrier, fermented aloe topically firms, and resveratrol, a naturally occurring antioxidant, provides protection from environmental stressors to visibly brighten over time.

    How to Use Hydrascape

    Hydrascape should be the last step in your skincare routine, second to last to SPF if worn during the day. Simply dispense a generous amount onto fingertips and smooth evenly onto your face and neck, massaging until absorbed.

    With its potent blend of hydrating, nourishing properties, Hydrascape also wears great under makeup.

    Benefits of Hydrascape

    • - Provides long-lasting hydration without feeling heavy or sticky

    • - Instantly plumps and brightens complexion leaving it soft and glowing

    • - Supports skin's moisture barrier and reduces the look of fine lines and wrinkles

    Hydrascape is perfect for those who suffer from dry, dehydrated skin, as it provides deep hydration that lasts all day. Firming fermented aloe and brightening resveratrol also make Hydrascape beneficial for aging skin, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

    Whether you're dealing with dry skin or want to maintain a youthful, radiant complexion, Hydrascape is a must-have. Its unique formulation, ease of use, and host of skin-loving ingredients make it an essential step in any skincare routine.

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